Entries Tagged as 'Environment'

Can Small Scale Mining Be Sustainable?

Christine Dein of Ethical Metalmiths and I have been corresponding lately about a number of issues. She co-directs Ethical Metalsmiths and has been traveling around the world with her Radical Jewelry Makeover.

The question of sustainability in context to small scale mining was addressed to both Greg Valerio and myself. As Greg is away at the moment, I answered. Below is Christina’s question, and my response.
~ Marc Choyt, Publisher, Fair Jewellery Action.

I have appreciated reading what you are both working on. It has raised a question in my mind that maybe you have already answered.

What are the long-term plans for artisanal / small-scale mining projects? As industrial mine sites have to close every 20+ years or so because the supply is gone, I can imagine that artisanal sites will face a similar situation.

Then again, the artisanal / small-scale sites might provide supply/income for a longer period of time because they are being mined at a much slower rate. What is the plan for a community that becomes dependent on mining revenue, grows into its new economic situation and then faces a diminished or consumed supply?

How will preparation for this scenario be handled? Is the idea that communities might evolve out of a mining based economy into another one; that they will need to create new economies to survive on? I am just curious and wonder how the project will address this.

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First, artisan small scale mining (ASM) done with hand tools can provide economic benefit that will last for last a long time. Sapphires have been mined in Sri Lanka by artisan miners since before the time of the Buddha. Deposits of other gemstones as well as rubies in Burma have also generated revenues for the local economy for hundreds of years. A more recent example of large gem deposits that have not yet been tapped is in Greenland. William Rohtert, who has documented high value ruby deposits, told me that small scale ruby mining in Greenland could supply the Inuit with a viable economy for hundreds of years as well.

Large scale mining, in contrast, is focused on extracting minerals as quickly and efficiently as possible. Their reason to exist is not to help in local jobs and economy—that is a by product. Publicly traded companies are mandated by law to maximize profit for the company, employees and shareholders. Consequently, huge amounts of value are exported from the community to justify the venture, leaving very little behind.

What takes Oro Verde two years to accomplish might take large scale mining two weeks. What might take a LSM mine twenty years to clear out might well provide a small ASM community for a hundred years or more. Even if an ASM community lasts twenty years, during that time, money will filter into the local economy to a much greater degree. More value will remain within the local economy.

With LSM, in contrast, after that twenty years, the community will be left with practically nothing. Their highest paid workers are generally ex-pats imported to that country. The likelihood of a strong local economic foundation is much greater in ASM than LSM.

Yet, I would not consider any mining scenario truly sustainable, even though LSM companies, such as Rio Tinto, have created entire publicity campaigns around their “sustainability.” First, mining is monumentally damaging to eco-systems. Boom and busts have been common in the mining industry throughout time. But from these resources entire, long lasting economic foundations have been created. A massive amount of infrastructure was generated in California and even beyond as a result of it’s gold rush. .

The cutting edge question is, how can these ASM opportunities be nurtured in such a way to create strong infrastructure and capacity that will outlast the mineral resource? This gets into grass roots development and creating capacity in the poor ASM communities. It involves dealing with massive and institutional corruption in developing countries. There is no easy way, but there is great potential. ASM provides the vast majority of material in the entire jewelry supply chain—some say up to 90% of all gemstones.

Hopefully, fair trade institutions will not be afraid of getting their hands dirty with small groups. The Diamond Development Initiative and the Alliance for Responsible Mining have created pathways that provide examples of what might be possible. Our efforts as jewelers to connect those ASM communities directly to retail our retail customer also helps.

Part of the mission of Fair Jewellery Action is to support these types of initiatives so that we can increase the beneficial impact of these positive developments, and support the grass roots local economies of vibrant ASM communities.

Manufacturing Standard Setting Committee: 6th Principle: Environment

Introduction:

This is an ongoing documentation of a series of dialogs between members of our Manufacturing Group, charged with the task of developing exceptional standards for jewelry manufacturing. Follow this link, http://www.fairjewelry.org/madison-dialogue-manufacturing-committee for full review of past discussions, including the entire principles and standards document that we are reviewing.

Manufacturing Standard Setting Committee: The 6th principle, Environment, had few comments. See the exchanges below.
~ Marc Choyt, Publisher, Fairjewelry.org

Marc Choyt wrote:

Below is the standard for the 6th principle; Environment. Please once again consider the proposed principle and standards.
Thank you again for your ongoing consideration.

Environment

Principle:

Manufacturing companies will operate with a commitment to ecological sustainability, minimizing waste, and seek continuous improvement in their environmental performance.

Standards:

Minimum Requirements:

6.1: The company will audit the waste from its facility.
6.2: Within a year, the company will implement a plan to reduce waste.
6.3: No materials shall be used in producing jewelry from endangered species.
6.4: The company will operate in full compliance with national environmental regulatory requirements. Any contaminants will be dealt with immediately and responsibly with the goal of minimizing impact to the environment.
6.5: The company will document their environmental performance and make it available to their auditors.

Flavia Aarden-Kilger wrote:

How are the environmental laws in developing countries. I hear and read the most aweful things from South America as well as China. For me that would mean 6.4 is meaningless. Shouldn’t there be some sort of criteria? Again I am not an expert on this…but for countries with little to no laws on environmental issues, shouldn’t we have some kind of rules in place?
Thanks again for all your efforts.

Marc Choyt wrote:

From my experience, most countries have something in place minimally, and so I put in 6.4 as a kind of minimum standard.
But reviewing the 6.4 standard now, I’m thinking it might make more sense to split out the two points, so it would read:

6.4: The company will operate in full compliance with national environmental regulatory requirements.

6.5: Any contaminants will be dealt with immediately and responsibly with the goal of minimizing the impact to the environment.

The current 6.5 would then be 6.6.
What do you think of this?

Flavia Aarden-Kilger wrote:

I think it is clearer. Not sure it’s enough, but if everyone else agrees how it’s outlined, it should be sufficient.

Dear Group:
Below please find the Progressive Requirements for Principle 6. To me, they seem straight forward enough. If there are no comments or suggestions for improvement, we can move to the next standard.

Cheers,
Marc

Progressive Requirements:
6.6p: The company will seek opportunities to continuously improve in their environmental performance and document such improvement.
6.7p: In addition to operating within full compliance with national environmental regulatory requirements, companies will strive to adhere to international best practices in their sector in running a facility, no matter where it may be in the world
6.8p: Companies will minimize waste production, and identify, manage, and mitigate the negative impacts of dumping wastes.
6.9p: Water and energy will be managed responsibly and efficiently. There will be responsible use, re-use, recycling and disposal of substances and materials at all stages of operation.
6.10p Manufacturing will operate with a commitment to ecological sustainability, minimizing waste, and seek continuous improvement in their environmental performance.
6.11p: Companies will make every effort to utilize recycled products and energy efficient lighting in their production whenever possible.
6.12p: Companies will recycle waste products at every available opportunity.

Greg Valerio wrote:
Agreed.

Response to Responsible Jewellery Council’s Call For Public Feedback On The Chain Of Custody Paper

by Marc Choyt and Greg Valerio

We welcome the opportunity to comment on RJC’s latest documents. We recognise the challenges and see the logic in the initial steps taken to assure chain of custody.

Fair Jewellery Action (FJA) is a new network being established by Marc Choyt of Reflective Images (USA) and Greg Valerio (UK), (founder of CRED Jewellery and a founding board member of ARM) whose aim is to draw together the breadth of responsible jewellers who are committed to transparency and traceability in the jewellery supply chain to ensure the highest possible standards that reflect these crucial values.

Below is FJA’s comments on the RJC chain of custody discussion paper.

RJC offered a variety of supply chain custody models to comment on. In our experience if RJC is going to fulfill its stated objectives of ensuring consumer confidence in the gold and diamond jewellery supply chain, then the only two credible supply chain models that are open for it to pursue would be ‘track & trace’ and ‘bulk commodity’. Although these systems are more expensive to implement in the early stages, we have found that with the required will, clear expertise and the current profit returns that leading RJC members post, it is within the RJC’s grasp and they are achievable.

In our experience as leading ethical and fair trade jewellers the only system that can give total assurance to customers of jewellery products is a system that ensures full 100% traceability from mine to retail.

Mass Balance and Book and Claim will not, based upon our experience in the fine jewellery sector, deliver on the stated mission objectives of the RJC. In fact we believe that it will leave the RJC open to the accusation of green washing as these approaches separate and disconnect the source from the consumer. As all jewellers know, gold and diamonds are not just commodities that are sold, they are aspirations and emotions that are marketed and it is in these marketed aspirations that the true current value of our product lies. We understand the moral disconnect that currently exists in the jewellery sector between source and finished product which is creating the difficulties we are now struggling with, but a mass balance/book and claim system will not eradicate bad practice, it will only serve to distract from it, leaving our industry rightfully open to the accusation of misleading the consumer.

We also offer these broader comments on RJC’s overall position;

• RJC needs to adopt the United Nations Declaration of Indigenous Rights as a core principle. A commitment to this Declaration would be a strong statement of advocacy toward producer communities.

• RJC should broaden its governance to include civil society groups and organisations that can represent the majority of the mining sector; namely the small-scale miners. Currently the governance body of the RJC is only representative of the minority in our industry and supply chain.

• Standards and leadership need to involve a wide variety of cross sector and multi-sector stakeholders working together. At present, only members within the jewellery sector are involved in the initiative. Respected stakeholders in civil society are needed to monitor members. It is the only way to credibly assure that business interests will not override environmental concerns and culture in producer communities.

• Within the multi-stakeholder context, a clear and open grievance policy that is transparent and open to the public must be implemented. This is the best way to assure producer communities have channels to air concerns.

• For membership to mean anything, retailers need to be transparent about the sourcing of their product, revealing at least what is mine to market custody and what is not.

Here is a link to the RJC’s Chain of Custody Paper. http://www.fairjewelry.org/pdfs/RJC_Chain_of_custody_paper_19_April_2010.pdf

Announcing The Launch Of Fair Jewellery Action (FJA)

This Publication Is Now Fair Jewellery Action, Which Greg Valerio And I Have Initiated.

~ Marc Choyt, Publisher

Santa Fe, NM USA: Fair Jewelry Action (FJA) is a Human Rights and Environmental Justice Network within the jewelry sector. FJA promotes ethical and fair trade jewelry business by advocating traceability and transparency in the jewelry supply chain. FJA’s objective is to direct more of the economic impact of the jewelry sector toward the regenerating of local economies in small-scale artisan producer communities, supporting of cultural integrity and environmental sustainability.

Through its communications platform and standard setting activities, FJA will function as a driving force to consumers, making ethically and fairly traded jewelry the only moral choice. It will support jewellers by connecting them with the source of their material and enabling them to see the social, environmental and market advantage of providing ethical products.

According to Greg Valerio, one of the co-founders of the organization, “As a starting point, jeweller brands must not lose sight of the simple fact that traceability and transparency are the foundational bedrock upon which any ethical scheme must be judged. If you don’t know where your material comes from, you are morally compromised.”

In addition to supporting jewellers and brands that source traceably and transparently, FJA will provide a world-first published and electronic ethical and jewelry manual and education materials, available to all jewelers and jewelry businesses. It will also provide lecture materials to jewelry students, aiming to inspire, facilitate and empower jewellers to become more ethical and fair trade in their business practice.

FJA will host campaigns in support of the rights of indigenous people, communities and small-scale miners affected directly or indirectly by unjust situations involving mining. FJA will be highly focused, supporting only those that it can impact, utilizing social media, an established network of suppliers, ethical jewellers, NGOs, press and action on the ground.

FJA is currently supporting the rights of Inuit small-scale ruby miners to mine, own, transform and sell ruby from Greenland without fear of prosecution or marginalization at the hands of the Danish run Bureau for Mines and Petroleum and neo-colonial business interests.

Recognizing that small-scale mining strengthens communities and has the potential to redeem economies in the third world, FJA will support mining projects enabling miners and their products to reach fair trade certification.

FJA will provide financial support, scoping studies and advice from qualified professionals, liaise with locals, practical help in implicating the project along with encouraging public support through press and up-to date information.

FJA is a programme launched in the UK and USA by fair trade jewellers and ethical jewelry advocates Greg Valerio and Marc Choyt. In the UK only, FJA will operate within the charitable trust of The CRED Foundation (no1072426).

Greg Valerio

Greg Valerio, fair trade jewelry pioneer and ethical campaigner, is the founder of CRED Jewellery, the UK and Europe’s first jewelry company to retail fair trade and fully traceable gold and platinum jewelry collections.

He is a regular speaker, lecturer and writer on human rights and environmental issues present in the jewelry supply chain, with the intention of inspiring and delivering best practice across the industry.

Some of the highlights of his work with CRED have been the publication of innovative reports, ‘Towards an Ethical Jewelry Business’ and ‘A Golden Opportunity’, and the formation of a partnership with Oro Verde, a pioneering small-scale mining initiative in the rain forests of Columbia. Since visiting Oro Verde in 2004, he continues to advocate for their groundbreaking social and environmental certification programme. Oro Verde support indigenous sustainable mining methods for gold and platinum that do not use cyanide or mercury, offering 100% transparency on gold.

In 2005, Greg co-founded the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), an international organisation seeking to lobby for small-scale mining communities among indigenous people groups around the world and has developed, in partnership with the Fairtrade Labeling Organisation (FLO) and Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), the world’s first fairtrade, fairmined standard for gold and associated precious metals. He currently serves on the ARM FLO standards committee.

Marc Choyt

Marc is the Publisher of fairjewelry.org, Since its founding in 2007 fairjewelry.org has become the most comprehensive trade and consumer resource on ethical jewelry production. With its translator function, it is read by people from 130 countries a month, and receives several hundred visitors a day.

Marc has published articles in newspapers and trade magazines. He is President of Reflective Images Inc, a designer jewelry company located in Santa Fe, NM that was established in 1995. Reflective Images converted its entire production, nationally and internationally, to recycled precious metal, and is focusing on artisan sourcing and production. The company also developed the F.R.E. transparent sourcing system and two e-books on ethical sourcing issues: one for the consumer and one for the trade.

Marc is currently spearheading a Fair Trade Manufacturing Principles and Standards Committee which is documented on fairjewelry.org. At the JCK Show in 2010, Marc was recognized by Jewelers That Care, a nonprofit organization, for his contributions in moving the ethical jewelry supply chain forward.

FJA is calling jewellers and jewelry businesses to join them in engaging with vital social and environmental issues, striving to achieve transparency and traceability in the supply chain from mine to retail.

To become a part of the fair jewelry network and to demonstrate your commitment to traceability and transparency in the jewelry supply chain please contact:

Marc Choyt (USA/Canada) reflective@cybermesa.com
Greg Valerio (UK/EU) greg@gregvalerio.com

If you are outside North America or Europe feel free to contact either Marc or Greg directly.

For press requiring further details, images etc please contact rosiegamble@gmail.com

The Virtuous Jewellery Circle

By Greg Valerio, The Fair Trade Jeweller

Being a fair trade and ethical jeweller is not easy. It takes time, money and conviction to move towards a place where our knowledge of the impact our business has on our supply chain is as detailed as our knowledge of our finished products, customers and profit lines.

Some have argued that it is not the responsibility of the jeweller to engage in the many complex issues that the long and complicated supply chains throw up. Yet as we all know, first through the impact that ‘conflict diamonds’ has had on us and now the emerging issue of ‘dirty gold’, our customers will be increasingly influenced by media and campaign groups on issues around jewellery. As retailers we are the front line in answering the consumer questions. If we cannot answer and demonstrate progress on social and environmental issues we may find ourselves being left behind as the industry moves forward and as a result losing customers. In this piece I want to explore in headline terms the virtues of Fairtrade Gold and the value of recycled gold as practices for us to explore as jewellers.
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Buying A Green Wedding ring And Ethical Engagement Ring Online? Five Key Questions You Must Ask

So, you’ve decided to get married and now you are considering a wedding and engagement ring set. This may be the first time in your life that you’re looking to invest in an expensive piece of jewelry. Hearing news about blood diamonds and dirty gold, you are somewhat suspicious of the jewelry sector. You want to find ethically made jewelry that’s a worthy representation of your love and commitment.

Fortunately, there are some green wedding ring options. You probably will not find them locally, because only a tiny percentage of jewelers are concerned about ethical sourcing issues enough to bring such product into their store. So you start to type in keywords into google and a number of recycled gold wedding rings and ethical wedding rings with fair trade gemstones pop up. Now what do you do?
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Ethically Sourced Tahitian Pearls: An Interview With Josh Humbert

Introduction:

Josh Humbert, runs an exemplary pearl farming operation in Tahiti, using methods that actually benefit the environment.


(Josh Humbert)

He was recently featured in an article in JCK Magazine.

We caught up with him at the ethical producer manufacturing meeting run by Bill Galleger at the Tucson Gem Show. This follow up interview was conducted via email by Marc Choyt and Greg Valerio.
~ Marc Choyt, Publisher
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Truth or Dare – The Legacy Of Gold Mining

Source: Greg Valerio The Fair Trade Jeweller

Jewellers who are rightly concerned about the providence of their raw materials will no doubt be concerned to have read at the beginning of the year another account of an irresponsible Canadian gold mining company. Goldcorp Group has been accused by CAFOD the UK Catholic Aid agency of polluting the local river systems of the Siria Valley.

To quickly recap in September 2008, CAFOD found clear evidence of contamination of water sources at a Goldcorp mine site. CAFOD’s report reveals acidity of the water at two sites reached levels of a pH between 2.5 and 3, which is typically very damaging to stream biology. (Distilled water has a pH of 7, vinegar 3 and lemon juice 2). As well as high levels of toxic metals, including cadmium, copper and iron.
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The Horrific Impact of AngloGold’s Latest DRC Initiative

Introduction:

This news release from CAFOD documents how AngloGold’s latest action, the lack of community consent and the potential displacement of thousands of small scale artisan miners.

AngloGold is a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), the big boys club in the jewelry sector. The RJC has been busy over the last few years setting standards for ethical sourcing that are supported by mainstream jewelers, including Jewelers of America.

These standards, however, have been thoroughly discredited by civil society groups and many members of the ethical sourcing community. See my previous post where I referenced AngloGold’s activities in Tanzania in context to the RJC.

~ Marc Choyt, Publisher
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The Latest Conflict Around “Conflict Free” Canadian Diamond Mines

To many First Nations people in the North West Territories, Canadian diamonds are full of conflict. Despite the promise of jobs and the Impact Benefit Agreements which gave money to communities, there were some who opposed the mines, anticipating the ecological havoc on their ancestral lands.

As this article in Canadian Mining Watch details, the environmental cost of Canadian diamonds has been significant. In any honest assessment, no diamond that comes from Canada can legitimately be called “conflict free” unless you discount the conflict mining has caused to the environment and the Native communities which live with it.
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