Fair Jewellery Action

In England, ethical issues in the jewelry world are in the forefront, and years ahead of US in terms of trade and public support. See a press release below.
~ Marc Choyt, Publisher

The National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) will form an ethics working committee following the announcement by the Fairtrade Labelling Organisation (FLO) and the Association of Responsible Mining (ARM) to introduce Fair Mined and Fair Trade standards for gold and precious metals.

The NAG has announced the move which will see Greg Valerio, founder of CRED Jewellery and co-founder of The Alliance for Responsible Mining and Vivien Johnston of Fifi Bijoux Luxury Ethical Jewellery, work in conjunction with the NAG’s Board to create a valuable resource for NAG members.

Enabling Relationships

Presently, creating a transparent supply chain which upholds positive ethics at every level is a complex process and one which remains inaccessible for the majority of jewellers.

Fairly traded, as well as socially and environmentally responsible resources already exist. However, the miners often lack the methods to connect with western jewellers.

Throughout the jewellery industry, a great will has been noted to work with these mining communities and to build their production capacities through enabling relationships.

“The partnership between small mining communities and UK small businesses seems a natural one, however both require some support and structure to maximise the benefits to each’ said Johnston.

Micheal Hoare, CEO of the NAG says “We are delighted to announce the formation of an ethics working committee. We hope that it will be a valuable resource for members looking to become part of an ethical supply chain”.

Johnston and Valerio have been working independently for several years to promote Fair Trade standards in Jewellery.
Johnston has been working on auditable standards and traceability formed under the British Ethical Jewellery Association (BEJA) 2007. Whilst in 2009, Valerio ‘a fair trade jeweller and activist’ was appointed by the Fairtrade Labelling Organisation (FLO) and is currently working with Fairtrade Foundation in the run up to the launch of certified gold in the UK, in Feb 2011.

Valerio commented that ‘Some of the biggest reputational risks the jewellery trade faces today are directly linked to our supply chains. The NAG supply chain ethics working group has been established to research, review and resource jewellers in the UK with practical ways they can positively tackle the human rights and environmental issues linked to our industry.”

Retailers to Benefit

It is hoped that retailers will benefit from the NAG coalition which aims to support businesses in the transition to a traceable and ethical supply chain .

This significant shift towards positive ethics is set to shape the future of the UK jewellery industry.

For further information please contact Faye Hadlow, Information Manager at the NAG, at 020 7613 4445 Option 4 or faye@jewellers-online.org

Tags: Announcements, Best Practices, CSR, Ethical Jewelry, Ethics, Fair Trade, Fair Trade Gems, Fair Trade Jewelry, Gold, Rad Transparency, Responsible Mining, Transparency, Trends by Marc Choyt
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Up until the last century, colored gems were the most popular choice for engagement rings. Today, many ethical brides want a sapphire, ruby or aquamarine not only for their astonishing beauty, but also, for ethical reasons. Many people are concerned about commerce in the jewelry sector funding wars, and would rather support companies that work on more of a “fair trade”basis. If you are looking for a fair gemstone, here’s some helpful background knowledge.

What Is A Fair Trade Gem?

Of all the colored gems that appear in the jewelry case, anywhere from 75% to 90% come from holdings that small scale miners dig with a shovel and pick. What typically happens is that dealers purchase this rough (unpolished gemstone still in its matrix) and sell the material to others, who export it to cutting centers around the world. This may then be sold to a wholesaler who presents the gem at a trade show. All these steps, and the enormous variety of locations from which various gems may be found, make it difficult to trace a particular stone back to it’s source. For all but a very few in the jewelry sector, the primary consideration in all these transactions is to buy at the lowest possible price and sell at the highest price.

The key issue in “fair trade” gemstones is assuring that there’s real, better than average, economic benefit for the small community where the gem is mined. In the ideal world, a fair trade gem would need to work within a set of principles and on the ground standards that assure ethical working conditions and environmental safeguards.

These criteria would be monitored by an independent third party. Ideally, the local economy where the gem is mined, would benefit from polishing operations. The entire supply chain would be completely traceable.

However, this ideal scenario does not exist. Instead, there is no third party monitoring and we have has elements of the fair trade ideal in three different frameworks.

Current Fair Trade Gem Sources

The first group are co-ops or associations of artisan small scale miners (ASM). The challenge is that small scale miners are generally not organized into cohesive communities to sell product as “ethically sourced.” Often ASM are poor and without access to market or polishing operations. One example of an organized group which is working is the Tanzania Women Miners Association (TAWOMA). However, because they do not have representation in the US or EU, sourcing can be difficult. Jewelers are not at ease purchasing gems sight unseen, and international shipping can be expensive.

The second group offering fair trade gems are companies which created their own fair trade principles and standards. Columbia Gems has pioneered this process at a ruby deposit in Malawi, where they work with small scale miners and provide schooling and many other benefits. Their cutting is done in China and supervised carefully. A second example of this type of company is Ruby Fair, which sources out of a remote village in Tanzania.

The third option to find ethically sourced gems are individuals who contact the artisanal miners directly and develop relationships that benefit their people and villages based upon a fair trade ethos. They personally finance exploration and shepherd the rough to cut through to a factory which they know is ethical. One person who does this, who I have known and have been buying from for almost twenty years, is Guy Clutterbuck.

How To Find The Gems

If you want to find one of these ethically sourced gems, the easiest way is to google “fair trade gems.” View several websites to get a feel for what is going on. See what is being offered and then look for specific information about transparency around and traceability through the polishing phase.

At this point, there are only a limited number of options. The jewelers that are legitimately claiming to sell fair trade gems are pretty much sourcing from the same small group of suppliers. If they are really working in the spirit of fair trade, they will be transparent about the source of their gems, from mine to market. They will tell you the companies that they are sourcing from.

By buying a fair trade gem and supporting the efforts of these early pioneers, your purchase supports the creation of the world that you wish to see.

Tags: Editorial, Ethical Jewelry, Fair Trade, Fair Trade Gems, Fair Trade Jewelry, Rad Transparency, Transparency, Trends by Marc Choyt
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TanzaniteOne has announced that they are now producing ethical “mine to market” gems. What exactly do they mean?

TanzaniteOne from an ethical perspective has had a reputation. At the JCK Jewelry Show just a few days ago, I spoke with a journalist who had written a piece for GIA several years ago, which was never published for political reasons, on TanzaniteOne production. He told me (and he asked not to be named) that five years ago, the average age of a tanzanite miner was 7 years, and that the average wage was a bowl of rice.
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Tags: Editorial, Ethical Jewelry, Ethics, Fair Trade Gems, Mining, Rad Transparency, Responsible Mining, Spin, Transparency, Trends by Marc Choyt
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By Alethe Clemetson, Director and Founder of Jewelers That Care

Jewelers That Care is a new non-profit with a compelling global perspective that will at once tap into the industry’s international reach and appeal while energizing and inspiring independent jewelers.

Many of the industry’s best known and most visionary members will be at the event, which will give attendees a great chance to help launch an important new initiative and connect with some of the industry’s leading, trend-setting figures.
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Tags: Announcements, Ethical Jewelry, Ethics, Fair Trade Gems, Fair Trade Jewelry, Rad Transparency, Transparency, Trends by admin
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Introduction:

In this exclusive interview, Guy Clutterbuck, one of the foremost experts in emerald rough in the world, discusses his latest discovery of emerald mines in a central African nation.

(Guy Clutterbuck)

Clutterbuck’s deep contacts with native people in remote areas have allowed him to gain access to areas from the mountains of Afghanistan and Northern Pakistan, to the far reaches of the African bush. His work depends upon trusting his life to the small scale artisan miners who he supports with his unique approach to the gem trade on the ground: fairness and integrity.

His latest discovery is already causing excitement among some gemologists. The chemical composition of his emerald material from Africa matches that of some of best from Colombia. Those who are concerned about ethical sourcing are reluctant to source from Colombia because the emerald trade is rumored to be associated with organized crime.
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Tags: Announcements, Ethics, Fair Trade, Fair Trade Gems, Interviews, Mining, Rad Transparency, Responsible Mining, Transparency, Trends by Marc Choyt
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By Marc Choyt

Tanzania is rich in gold and gemstone resources. Yet, like many African countries with massive resources, it is a poor nation. Not enough money stays in the local economies. To help change this scenario, the government of Tanzania has recently decided to ban the export of rough gemstones and maximize the local benefit related to the gemstone economy.

In addition, Tanzania will not be issuing mining licenses to foreign companies. Mining will be reserved for locals; foreigners must be in a joint venture to participate. According to a press release, “The purpose behind this move is to develop a cutting and polishing industry in Tanzania itself and boost local employment. The gemstones under purview of the new legislation include diamonds, tanzanite, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, turquoise, topaz and others,” reports add.
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Tags: Announcements, Editorial, Fair Trade Gems, Mining, Rad Transparency, Responsible Mining, Transparency, Trends by Marc Choyt
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Meghan Connolly Haupt, a regular contributor to fairjewelry.org, has launched her own jewelry line.

April 8, 2010 – New York, NY – No longer do consumers need to sacrifice sustainability for luxury or their values for beauty. Meghan Connolly Haupt jewelry launches today as the first sustainable fine jewelry brand. Going well beyond just “conflict-free,” Meghan offers consumers beautiful, finely crafted jewelry that they can feel good about purchasing, gifting and wearing.

(Meghan Connolly Haupt)

As a pioneer of the sustainable fine jewelry movement, Meghan creates simple, classic and sophisticated designs that often allow for the unexpected. As examples, the Infinity Necklace incorporates a diamond toggle closure rather than a clasp, and the Reveal Earrings have a slight torque to expose the internal row of pave-set Australian blue sapphires. The Asymmetrical Necklace can be worn vertically or horizontally, while the Diamond Line Earrings can be worn long or short to best complement a look.
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Tags: Announcements, Best Practices, CSR, Ethical Jewelry, Ethics, Fair Trade Gems, Fair Trade Jewelry, Rad Transparency, Transparency, Trends by Meghan Connolly Haupt
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by Greg Valerio

Co-funded by Both Ends (Netherlands) and The CRED Foundation’s Fair Jewellery Action Programme (UK), The Golden Opportunity explores some of the historical relationships between large scale mining and small scale mining in public policy. Steve Tibbet, the author argues that the macro economic policy narrative that has been so vociferously implemented on behalf of Large Scale mining companies in the name of the prospering developing countries’ social and environmental well being, is misplaced and has not yet delivered on the promises made to developing nations by multi lateral agencies like the World Bank.
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Tags: Announcements, CSR, Editorial, Ethical Jewelry, Ethics, Fair Trade, Fair Trade Gems, Fair Trade Jewelry, Gold, Green Wash, Greenland Rubies, Mining, Rad Transparency, Responsible Mining, Rubies, Social Initiatives, Spin, Transparency, Trends by Greg Valerio
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In this exclusive interview, Guy Clutterbuck discusses the sourcing of his mandarin garnets.

(Guy Clutterbuck)

His deep contacts with native people in remote places have allowed him to gain access to the mountains of Afghanistan and Northern Pakistan, to the far reaches of the African bush. His work depends upon trusting his life to the small scale artisan miners who he supports with his unique approach to the gem trade on the ground: fairness and integrity.

[Read more →]

Tags: Announcements, Editorial, Fair Trade Gems, Interviews, Mining, Responsible Mining, Social Initiatives, Transparency by Marc Choyt
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Those of us jewelers sourcing responsible gems, recognize that the choices are extremely limited. One new option that has come to market in the last few years is Zultanite.

(Zultanite Gems)

Zultanite is rare. It is mined only in one location in Turkey. The gem is a strong alternative to diamonds. In this interview Jim Fiebig, who has been active in educating jewelers on mine to market practices, discusses some basic points that make Zultanite an option with considering. Here is a previous post on fairjewelry.org by Jim on ethical sourcing issues in Madagascar from August, 2008.

This interview was conducted via email in early April, 2010.

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Tags: Fair Trade Gems, Interviews, Mining, Rad Transparency, Responsible Mining, Transparency by Marc Choyt
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