Entries Tagged as 'Spin'

STR Reasonable Sourcing Categorizes Their Third Party Certification Process For The Responsible Jewellery Council As “Fair Trade” In A Press Release

In a press release on CSR Wire, STR Responsible Sourcing announced a partnership with the Responsible Jewellery Council. They will be auditing RJC’s supply chain. STR Responsible Sourcing categorized their initiative with the RJC in the press release as “fair trade.”

The STR Responsible Sourcing initiative with the RJC is similar to fair trade only by the virtue of it being a third party certification system. The Fair Labeling Organization (FLO) also has a third party certification. But the similarities between RJC’s and fair trade end there. The RJC is not fair trade. STR Responsible Sourcing’s categorization of their initiative as fair trade in their release on the CSR wire is inaccurate and misleading.

~ Marc Choyt, Publisher, Fair Jewelry Action

CAFOD Comments On The Responsible Jewellery Council Chain-of-Custody Discussion Paper

Thanks to Sonya Maldar Policy Analyst – Corruption and Extractives CAFOD, for permission to post their comments.

22 June 2010

CAFOD welcomes the opportunity to comment on the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) chain-of-custody discussion paper. For a number of years, CAFOD has been advocating for greater transparency in the gold supply chain so we are pleased that the Council is considering the options around chain-of-custody certification.

We believe that if the RJC is able to develop a strong chain-of-custody standard it could help to improve the traceability of the gold supply chain. If this was linked to an improved RJC Code of Practices that comprehensively addressed issues such as submarine tailings disposal; free, prior and informed consent of communities; involuntary resettlement etc. it could help to drive up standards across the gold industry. This would be to the benefit of communities affected by mining projects. It would also increase consumer confidence in gold products.

The experience of CAFOD’s Unearth Justice campaign has shown that there is strong interest amongst our supporters and the general public in issues of traceability and provenance. Our supporters have indicated that they would like to know about the origin of the gold they buy, particularly because gold jewellery is likely to be a one-off purchase. The ability of a chain-of-custody system to improve traceability and industry standards and increase consumer confidence depends on how robust it is. CAFOD believes that consideration of the following key issues is essential if the RJC system is have credibility in the eyes of all stakeholders, not just industry members.

The Chain-of-Custody Model:

Of the four models outlined in the discussion paper, the “Track and Trace” model offers the most robust system, capable of delivering the highest levels of physical traceability for the consumer. If implemented it would enable jewellers to show that 100 percent of a component of a final product is traceable to a mine of origin. Discussions at the Council’s London meeting on 18 May 2010 indicated this is what jewellery retail members want to see. Clearly “Track and Trace” is a more demanding system, but we believe that the benefits of implementing a rigorous system would outweigh the disadvantages. If the Council is to invest time and money into developing a chain-of-custody standard, then it is important to get it right from the outset.

With members from all parts of the gold supply chain, the Council is in a unique position. Given that due to Anti-Trust considerations any chain-of custody standard would have to be voluntary, a key issue for the RJC would be providing sufficient incentives to ensure a critical mass of members participate. It is important not to underestimate the influence individual companies can have. For example, individual companies can look at their contractual relationships with direct suppliers to ensure adherence to the highest standards. If there are insufficient volumes of gold for batch refining under “Track and Trace”, the “Bulk
Commodity” model could provide a temporary alternative. However the claims made about products certified under this model would need to be adjusted accordingly.

The Council would need to develop clear criteria for determining how and when the different models could be applied. For example, when exemptions from “Track and Trace” would be applicable and timelines agreed for when full compliance should be achieved. We believe that full traceability should not be sacrificed at the expense of keeping manufacturing costs to a minimum, even if this results in greater costs to the consumer. We know from CAFOD’s own research many consumers would be prepared to pay more. A strong chain-of-custody standard could provide real choice to consumers, compared to the current situation where there exists a lack of confidence in products of all price ranges. We do not believe that “Mass-balance” or “Book and Claim” models offer sufficient levels of traceability to improve practices at mine sites or provide consumers with the level of information they want about gold jewellery products.

Claims of the product:

One of CAFOD’s key concerns relates to the claims that can be legitimately made by the Council about products certified under a chain-of-custody standard. In order to make credible claims about the social and environmental responsibility of a product, a chain of custody standard should be linked to adherence to the highest social and environmental standards.
As outlined in CAFOD’s comments on the RJC Mining Supplement (submission dated 17 October 2008) we are concerned that the RJC’s Code of Practices does not go far enough in setting standards to address the impacts of mining on the developing world. If the aim of the RJC is to improve standards and increase consumer confidence in the gold supply chain, the Code of Practice must go beyond national legal compliance and take the lead on the tough issues. Currently the Code of Practices:

- Does not guarantee the right of communities to give or withhold their consent. It onlyrequires members to “seek to obtain” the broad community support of indigenous people. For the wider community the standard is that members “should” obtain broad support throughout the project;

- Does not explicitly prohibit involuntary resettlement of communities;

- Does not address the need for standards on mercury emissions;

- Does not prohibit outright submarine tailings disposal.

CAFOD strongly believes that unless this fundamental point is addressed, RJC certified products will have difficulty securing the confidence of all stakeholders.

TanzaniteOne Is Now Ethical. But What Does That Mean?

TanzaniteOne has announced that they are now producing ethical “mine to market” gems. What exactly do they mean?

TanzaniteOne from an ethical perspective has had a reputation. At the JCK Jewelry Show just a few days ago, I spoke with a journalist who had written a piece for GIA several years ago, which was never published for political reasons, on TanzaniteOne production. He told me (and he asked not to be named) that five years ago, the average age of a tanzanite miner was 7 years, and that the average wage was a bowl of rice.
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A Jeweler That Cares

Introduction:

I was honored for my work at this year’s JCK Show by Jewelers That Care, a new nonprofit. This is the text of the speech I gave on Saturday.
~ Marc Choyt, Publisher


(Marc and Friend)

“I just turned 50 last week. I took it as an opportunity to reflect upon what has been most important in my life.

One of the blessings in my life is that I’ve had many wonderful mentors. Among them, Paula Underwood, stands out.

Paula was an Iroquois history keeper. Some of her stories were thousands of years old. They were about what is most essential in the experience of being a human being.

She published several books, consulted for corporations, and presented at systems thinking conferences. She would focus on strategic planning — future planning.

For her, it was not about next month, next quarter, next year or even five years from now, but 500 hundred years from now.
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“The Golden Opportunity” – Recasting The Debate On The Economic And Development Benefits Of Small Scale And Artisanal Mining

by Greg Valerio

Co-funded by Both Ends (Netherlands) and The CRED Foundation’s Fair Jewellery Action Programme (UK), The Golden Opportunity explores some of the historical relationships between large scale mining and small scale mining in public policy. Steve Tibbet, the author argues that the macro economic policy narrative that has been so vociferously implemented on behalf of Large Scale mining companies in the name of the prospering developing countries’ social and environmental well being, is misplaced and has not yet delivered on the promises made to developing nations by multi lateral agencies like the World Bank.
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The Manufacturing Discussions: The Current Fair Trade Jewelry Scenario

Introduction:

This is an ongoing recording of dialog between the various members of our Manufacturing Group charged with the task of developing exceptional standards for jewelry manufacturing. Follow this link for full review of past discussions. The entire principles and standards document can be found here http://www.fairjewelry.org/archives/3196

While the focus for our Manufacturing Standards Group is on the mainstream jewelry sector, some members of our group work primarily within the artisanal/craft sector which supplies product to large fair trade companies that act as distributors. Google ‘fair trade jewelry’ and a number of these large companies will appear.

This dialog is a strong critique of some of those companies from members in our group that are deep within that system of commerce. The article picks up on a theme that we published earlier here on this post http://www.fairjewelry.org/archives/3373.
Publishing it now is a bit out of sequence.
~ Marc Choyt, Publisher
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TrueNorthGemsApartheid.Com-Declaration Of Intent

Press Release

16th August Union Declaration of Intent

The 16th August Union demands that all Greenlanders have rights to a fair share of Greenland Ruby.

Specific Demands:

  1. Restoration of the rights in Article 32
  2. Restoration of the rights in the “One Handful” rule
  3. Cease and desist all legal harassment of ruby miners
  4. Due process for ruby miners permits and licenses
  5. New ASM law written by neutral international party
  6. Guaranteed rights to free and fair trade
  7. Guaranteed rights to international participation

Situation Briefing
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Greenland Moves To Formalize Arctic-Apartheid System In Gemstone Exploration

Press Release

Inuit Small Scale Miners Unite With International Community of Ethical Jewelers and call for a boycott of the “Artic-Apartheid” Ruby

Nuuk, Greenland (PRWEB) March 5, 2010 — Niels Madsen, a small scale mining activist and one of the founders of the 16th August Union, a Greenlandic association of small scale miners, has issued a call to the international community to block the Greenland Bureau of Minerals and Petroleum’s (BMP) continuing attempt to disenfranchise Greenlanders from their mineral resources.


(Niels Madsen)

The BMP has recently revoked communal ownership of the land and its resources, which were formerly guaranteed under Article 32 of the Greenlandic Constitution. On March 8th, Greenland’s Manager of the BMP, Jorn Skov Nielsen will present in Toronto to the Prospectors and Developers Association of Canada with the clear aim of offering Greenland’s vast mineral wealth to large scale mining companies.

“Any company that collaborates with the BMP is not only in violation of the UN Declaration of Indigenous Rights,” said Madsen, “they are also supporting what has clearly become an apartheid system.”

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Responsible Jewelry and the Search for Credibility

By Jesse Finfrock

Jesse Finfrock is Cofounder of The Clarity Project. The Clarity Project is a fair jewelry social enterprise dedicated to improving the quality of life for miners and their communities. ~ Marc Choyt, Publisher


(Photo Courtesy of Alliance for Responsible Mining, Guatemala.)

In late January, Martin Rapaport wrote that “blood diamonds from Marange, Zimbabwe, have been issued Kimberley Process (KP) certificates and imported into the cutting centers, where they were cut and polished and then sold to dealers, jewelry manufacturers and retailers.” He estimated that “tens of thousands of carats of blood diamonds are now in dealers’ inventories and jewelers’ showcases — and are being actively sold to consumers.” [Read more about Rapaport's criticisms.]
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The Horrific Impact of AngloGold’s Latest DRC Initiative

Introduction:

This news release from CAFOD documents how AngloGold’s latest action, the lack of community consent and the potential displacement of thousands of small scale artisan miners.

AngloGold is a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), the big boys club in the jewelry sector. The RJC has been busy over the last few years setting standards for ethical sourcing that are supported by mainstream jewelers, including Jewelers of America.

These standards, however, have been thoroughly discredited by civil society groups and many members of the ethical sourcing community. See my previous post where I referenced AngloGold’s activities in Tanzania in context to the RJC.

~ Marc Choyt, Publisher
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