Entries Tagged as ''

Ethical Jewelry Market In The UK Grows Stronger


Introduction:

In an UK publication, Springfair.com, author Rachael Taylor outlines how precious jewelry sales have remained strong, even in this economy. Of particular interest to the readers of this blog are these passages:

“However, one issue that might well hinder the expansion of the precious jewellery market is ethical mining. After gaining much publicity following the release of the Hollywood blockbuster film Blood Diamond, which portrayed the damaging effects of unethical mining, sourcing is entering consumers’ consciousness.”

Taylor then quotes the fashion analyst, Katrin Magnussen:

“The UK jewellery trade itself should continue its efforts to address the ethical issues of producing precious jewellery. It also needs to act now to reassure consumers that their gold and gemstones come from ethical sources, as this will invariably become an increasingly important concern for those buying statement jewellery.”

I am not surprised to read this. I visited the UK in July and in one old church I visited, I saw loads of information about green and fair trade issues. An elderly woman began talking to me about her personal quandaries of how to shop her values. Even the mainstream supermarkets have labeling on products that source their origin to particular locales.

The UK market as a whole is much more aware of these issues than the US.

However, in the US, the success of companies such as Whole Foods and Patagonia demonstrates huge market potential. This demographic is much more spread out across large geographic areas. This suggests that the biggest opportunity in the US market for ethical sales is the internet, where the competition in the selling of ethically sourced jewelry has barely begun.

~ Marc Choyt, Managing Editor

Here’s the link to the original article–
http://www.springfair.com/page.cfm/action=Archive/ArchiveID=1/EntryID=947

Share/Save/Bookmark

International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) Expresses Concern for Collateral Damage in Burma

Introduction:

This statement by the ICA hints at the real damage that the Burmese gem boycott will cause. This is a courageous and important release, given how risky it is for anyone in the jewelry sector to oppose this boycott which was so strongly pushed by JA and CRJP.

Ironically, the boycott impacts the very artisan miners that are probably supporting the grass roots pro-democracy movement.

The actions of the US government and the jewelers who support this boycott provides a perfect cover-up for the multinational oil companies, like BP, and the major timber interests, that are primarily responsible for providing currency that continues to prop up the Burmese Regime. The US government can now look like it is concerned about human rights while protecting multinational oil, gas and timber interests.

Moreover, the boycott is entirely unenforceable, since the rubies will simply be smuggled into neighboring countries. The artisanal miners in Burma will probably be paid less money for their rubies.

This travesty appearing as “good action” leads one to question whether the primary lesson learned from the blood diamond tragedy was that of public relations, rather than morality. ~ Marc Choyt, Managing Editor.

I have written multiple posts on this subject:


World Wide Opposition To The Burmese Gem Boycott Builds

A Scholarly Article on the Mining Sector In Burma

The Burmese Ruby Boycott: Who Does It Really Hurt? Who does It Really Help?

Edward Boehm, VP of International Colored Gemstones Against The Burmese Ruby Boycott

Laura Bush, “Blood Rubies” and the Export Economy of Burma


ICA’s Press Release

New York — The International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) issued a statement today regarding the Tom Lantos “Block Burmese JADE Act of 2008,” signed by President Bush on July 29, 2008, which bars gemstones of Burmese origin — specifically rubies and jadeite — from entering the United States via third party countries. This importation ban encompasses all jadeite and rubies coming from Burma , including stones that have been processed in other countries such as Thailand .

ICA reiterated that its policies are in line with all national and international associations against the violent repression of individuals, human rights and pro-democracy movements in Myanmar (formerly Burma ). In light of this, ICA has asked its members to stop buying Burmese gemstones from any government sources and/or people who support those endeavors.

However, the ICA also fears that, the US government’s decision to support a systematic ban on the trade of Burmese gemstones may very well have a negative impact and cause collateral damage upon independent and poor populations engaged in mining, processing and trading activities in Myanmar and other countries.

“Those who will suffer are the very people that the legislation intended to protect,” Andrew Cody, President of ICA, said in a statement. “It is a pity that the leadership in national, international and governmental agencies, people that are not really in-the-know as to what takes place on the ground, failed to consult our association on this issue, and to our knowledge, no collateral damage study was undertaken,” he concluded.

For more information contact:
Barbara Wheat
Executive Director
International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA)
19 W. 21st St, Suite 705
New York, NY 10010
Tel: 1-212-620-0900
Fax: 1-212-352-9054
ica@gemstone.org
www.gemstone.org

Share/Save/Bookmark

China Lets Child Workers Die While Mining In The Congo

Introduction:

China is heavily investing in Africa in order to lock up resources for its growing economy. This extensive article published in Bloomberg details the continued tragic exploitation of resources in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Quoting directly from the article:

“The mines are like poison,” says Bambi, 61, who wears a black gown with a pattern of apples and blossoms and is known as Mama Betty to the children in her orphanage. “The kids work without any safety equipment. The Chinese don’t care about the kids. All they’re after is the minerals.”

– Marc Choyt, Editor

Read The Full Article Here:
http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601081&refer=australia&sid=aW8xVLQ4Xhr8

Share/Save/Bookmark

IDEX Online: The Green Movement And Jewelry Sales

Introduction:

Ken Gassman, the Head of the International Diamond Exchange (IDEX) Online Research , writes about factors that are effecting that jewelry sector’s sales, which he states, could be worse. One factor that he lists is the growing green movement:

“…the mining of these stones is about as eco-friendly as any mining operation, we would think that consumers who want “green” products would consider jewelry to be a “friendly” industry. But the “green” movement has moved beyond green: it is now more about shunning conspicuous consumption and bling. Jewelry is both.”

Of course, for those designers and manufacturers who are working on moving toward green, the green movement represents an incredible opportunity. At m own company, Reflective Images, for example, our first shipment of recycled Harmony Metal from Hoover and Strong arrived at our international manufacturer this week. This will allow all our international and domestic production to be made with entirely recycled precious metal.

Other companies can do the same. Here’s the link to Mr. Gassman’s article which is worth reading. ~ Marc Choyt, Editor

http://www.idexonline.com/portal_FullNews.asp?id=31013

Share/Save/Bookmark

The Onerous Truth: The Gold Supply Chain For Jewelry

Eighty percent of gold used in jewelry comes from mines. Your wedding ring might have caused about three tons of toxic laden waist. Now, an investigative piece published on the website of ABC news documents how child labor is rife in African Gold mines.

The AP tracked the gold to Swiss companies where it entered the world market secretly. Quoting from the article, “If you wear a gold ring on your finger, write with a gold-tipped fountain pen or have gold in your investment portfolio, chances are good your life is connected to these children.”

This extensive story provides makes it clear that unless gold can be traced to a specific mine that follows strong ethical and human rights standards, the most ethical choice is to support jewelers who fabricate only with recycled precious metal.

Read this excellent feature article off this link.

http://abcnews.go.com/International/WireStory?id=5551166&page=4

Share/Save/Bookmark

Gem Dealers Are “Screwed” By Artisan Miners All The Time

Introduction:

In the gathering information about the artisanal gemstone mining sector, a European gemstone dealer emailed me with this comment. This post really isn’t directly connected to either Mohamed or Jim, yet I decided to include it anyway.

It points to why we need some kind of new structure that will break the post colonial cycle based on exploitation and greed. The person commented here wished to remain anonymous, but has had decades of gemstone trading experience in both Africa and South America.

This short post is the last in a series of five consecutive posts covering the issue of artisanal gemstone mining from a macro perspective of two people in the field. ~ Marc Choyt, Editor

“What no one seems to understand is that EVERY one of the dealers ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD will sell you synthetic or misrepresented goods ANY TIME they get the chance. I’ve been screwed by guys I’ve known for years in Africa and South America. All these people trying to enhance artisanal miner’s lives need to understand they are not always innocent, poor people. They have robbed “foreign dealers” as often as “foreign dealers” have robbed them. That is something all these Madison/Eco-minerals/CASM and all the other NGOs will never understand.”

Share/Save/Bookmark

Exclusive Interview With Tanzanian Mohamed Mnzava On Gem Dealers In Tanzania

Introduction:

In early August, Mr. Mnzava posted a comment on the Madison Dialogue List Serve: “Foreign gemstones dealers notably from USA and Europe, Far East undermine miners and governments in Africa.” His post was in response to Jim Fiebig’s work in Madagascar. I followed up with this interview.

This post is the fourth in a series of five consecutive posts covering the issue of artisanal gemstone mining from a macro perspective of two people in the field. ~ Marc Choyt, Editor

The Interview

MC: First, can you tell us something about who you are? How long have you been in the gemstone trade? What kind of company do you have? How many people do you employ?

MM: I am Mr. Mohamed N. Mnzava (50 yrs old), a Tanzanian. I have been in the Gemstones mining and trading business for more than 17 years (since 1989). I registered my company - Chambers Precious Stones in Tanzania in year 1990 as a mining and gemstones trading company. The company has 4 people as full time and 20 casual (part time).

MC: Where do your source your gemstones from and who do you sell them to?

MM: I source over 90% of my Gemstones from Tanzanian small scale miners and brokers. Most of my suppliers are people I have known for a long period and who we have been working together for a long time.

Most small scale miners operate without licenses, but most brokers are licensed. Sometimes I do get small lots of gemstones from associates (importers from neighboring countries -notably Msumbiji, Zambia, Malawi and DR of Congo)

MC: In your comment, you spoke of the “true nature of the way most foreign gemstone dealers… undermine governments in Africa.” Can you elaborate on what you mean by this specifically?

MM: Specifically, all foreign buyers with registered companies stationed here in Tanzania pay very little prices for gemstones they buy here. I have many examples of prices being paid here by foreign buyers, most of which reflect a 10 – 20 % only of the average market prices they sell, some of which we can find in their websites.

I have witnessed buyers paying US $0.9 for a gram of Sunset Tourmalines (2gm up size) which they sell openly at above US $10 per gram in the foreign buyers websites, after only one week after buying the stones here. There are many examples some which show extra ordinary differences in price ratios.

I know a lot of foreign buyers who have registered companies here, and not one of them have ever provided any formal Gemstone trading knowledge or school sponsorship to people who are working for them so that they can one day be self reliant in this trade.

MC: If a gem dealer comes to someone like yourself, or an artisan miner and buys the gems, why is it, as you say, that “there is more to loose with the foreign buyer than gain?”

MM: It’s in principal that because they do take what they do not fairly pay for it’s an unfair game, and in any unfair game be it gambling of football, one side one is loosing, one side is being robbed. In every field Fairness is a just cause….

For example, all foreign buyers here (in here referred as Gem dealer) do buy Rough gemstones only. They do not buy cut stones. It’s obvious that the best price anyone can get for gemstones is to sell cut stones. In this context the artisan miner, they do not have any option of getting the best from the trade unless they can have access to the cut stones markets.

Also the buying prices offered by these foreign buyers are too low and this makes the cycle of poverty a closed circuit for the artisans who will never get out of poverty as they will always be poor and helpless.

Take into account that Gemstones are items which can not be replaced or replenished once they have been mined. It’s obvious that in a fixed period of time, all the gemstones have been mined and finished. The small scale miners will still have no better position because whatever they are being paid can not suffice any other project except subsistence living.

This is all very obvious to the population in and around mining areas where billions worth of gemstones have been mined and still people are in abject squalid poverty. What have they gained, if they can not even send their kids to school, can not have proper sanitation, no medical care, no proper housing?

How would you feel if your guest leaves your home richer then when he came in, used you energy, body and mind, took away your every available natural god given resources, and you are left with an empty and door less house so you can not feed your wife and kids? Instead, you are left sick, old and tired? Will you welcome him next time he knocks your door? Have you gained or lost? I am sure it’s all a loosing game here.

MC: What in your view would make the current system fairer for artisan small scale miners in your region?

MM: The best and foremost trading step stone is to set a Gemstone exchange with a regulatory body which will be acting for the artisan, small scale miners, brokers and local
Tanzanian gemstones dealers.

Secondarily, to give proper gemstones trade information and knowledge to the above mentioned stake holders.

Third, the setting of a bimonthly free newsletter with an intention of reaching a mass audience of the stakeholders so as to inform them of market needs/trends and fluctuations.

MC: What in your view would make the current system fairer for gem dealers in your region?

MM: First, the foreign buyers should be buying gemstones in regulated Gemstone exchange markets as mentioned above, supervised by stakeholders.

Second, foreign buyers should not be allowed to go to the mines (most of which a remote) where people lack information and are susceptible to selling their stones with limited or outdated trade information. Otherwise, allowance can be made on this with limited supervision.

This should hold until artisans have enough awareness and knowledge to the basics on gemstones trading. There is too much to do here, and this forum/interview can not accommodate that much. I assume that this is for setting an agenda for action…

MC: Do you know about groups such as the Association of Responsible Mining (ARM), which has been working with the artisan mining sector to create fair trade standards? Do you believe fair trade principals would be something that would help the small scale miners? If so, what would constitute “fair trade” in your view?

MM: Yes, I know about ARM and personally believe in their principals. But they have still to come up with better techniques of empowering the artisans/small scale miners with knowledge/education, which I believe is the best tool to fight.

The saying goes - knowledge is power. The artisans do not have this tool no matter how much any other effort is put in, the work will be hard and long…..

MC: If you had the power to make three changes to the current system, what would they be?

MM: It’s all about one thing, in principle its Education / knowledge. Educate the artisans/small miners and local dealers on their basics rights; basic and advanced gemstones mining/identification knowledge; trade information and techniques related to gemstones trade; laws under the Tanzanian Mining Act.

With education and knowledge, these people will be at a position to defend their rights for land grabbing and pollution of their areas, including aquifers and streams. They will know how to act according to the local mining rights (the mining act) and even resist to any form of unfairness.

It’s always easier for anyone with education / knowledge to engage in a fight to defend or demand their basic rights. If it takes resistance, courts of law, strikes or any other form of fair resistance.

We need to have principal amendments which shall guarantee the rights of indigenous people or their whole communities where any gemstones or minerals have or will be found. It has to be done in the current Tanzania Mining Act.

MC: Is there anything else that you would like to add?

MM: Establishment of a permanent Gemstone trade/mining Data centre, where all stakeholders will be able to have easy and immediate access to information of what is going on in all major and other parts of the world gemstones markets.

Education, education, knowledge…. this is the key to a door of liberty, the first steps to know that your rights are being denied. It is the way to know that someone there is unfair to you….

Share/Save/Bookmark

Jim Fiebig Responds To Mohamed Mnzava, Detailing His Work In Madagascar

Introduction:

Here, Jim Fiebig responds to Mohamed Mnzava. Thanks to both for their permission to post which previously had been exchanged only in a private email.

This post is the third in a series of six consecutive posts covering the issue of artisanal gemstone mining from a macro perspective of two people in the field. In the next post, Jim responds to Mohamed. ~ Marc Choyt, Editor

THE EMAIL

Dear Mr. Mnzava:

Thank you for your interest in the Madison Group efforts and my opinion posted last week. It is this very exchange of views that gives me hope about the spread of freedom and information via the World Wide Web.

I have visited your country and had the best experiences I have ever had anywhere in Africa, if not the world. I spent a week in Dar-es-Salaam and would love to return there again. I would like to answer your questions in order below.

Its a contribution which presents a true nature of the way most Foreign Gemstones dealers notably from USA and Europe, Far East undermine miners and Governments in Africa, Mr. Jim should ask himself.

QUESTIONS ANSWERED

MM: How did the people he claims are in poverty live before he arrived in Madagascar?

JF: Actually, the people in Madagascar who moved from subsistence farming into mining increased their income by a great deal. I fully understand the realtive nature of “poverty”.

MM: How much in money, knowledge and material worth has he supported the miners?

JF: I suppose this question would best be answered by all of the many Malagasy people who I have employed in various capacities over the eight years I have traveled to Madagascar. I have supported the IGM Gemological Institute of Madagascar with both cash and gemstone contributions. Several of my clients have also supplied scholarship funds to this Institute. We also support fresh water and sanitation initiatives in the South with Azafady, and a Street Children’s Center in the capital city.

MM: How much richer has he been since he arrived in Madagascar?

JF: Unfortunately, I must report that I have yet to make back the proceeds from the sale of my jewelry store that I invested in Madagascar. So far I am still out about $65,000.00 US dollars.

MM: How many Africans has he supported to penetrate the USA or and other export market?

JF: The Malagasy have now made appearances at Tucson and Hong Kong. This was entirely at the direction of Tom Cushman, from America.

MM: How much does he relatively pay for the Gemstones?

JF: Mr. Mohamed, you must understand that unlike all of the other “foreign dealers” you speak of, I make no commission from my clients transactions with the Malagasy dealers. My sole objective is to increase the volume of business that is done DIRECTLY with the Malagasy and facilitate these transactions for “foreign buyers” that want to benefit the indigenous population that so often have been robbed of these gems throughout history.

MM: There are many questions to ask Mr. Jim and many answers will be obvious that there is more to lose from the foreign buyers than gain.

JF: I would take issue with this since it was only these Foreign buyers that brought the resources to export these gemstones that meant nothing to the local population. I still believe that local populations should benefit much more than they currently do and that is what the Madison Group is all about.

MM: I have not seen anywhere in Mr Jims letter where he has directly mentioned or blamed whoever did illegally export the Emerald crystal in question.

JF: The Malagasy woman responsible in part for this deception is currently in jail. I do not condone any smuggling and have been adamant about NOT bribing and doing all the things that had become commonplace in the many African gem markets. Remember, I started traveling to buy gems for my store in 1988.

MM: In Africa we do blame the Thorn before we blame the affected….

JF: I like this saying. In Madagascar, the current embargo reaction that has paralyzed this growing industry is like our American saying of “Throwing the baby out with the bathwater” or “Not seeing the forest for the trees” It is very short sighted and that is my only point.

MM: I ask him to personally respond to me so that i can give him more data and references of the way foreign Gemstones traders rob the African nations.

JF: Thank you for this opportunity to respond. I am always interested in learning more about other viewpoints.

Share/Save/Bookmark

Tanzanian Mohamed Mnzava On The Onerous Effects Of Foreign Gem Dealers In Tanzania


Introduction:

In early August, Mr. Mnzava posted a comment on the Madison Dialogue List Serve: “Foreign gemstones dealers notably from USA and Europe, Far East undermine miners and governments in Africa.” His post was in response to Jim Fiebig’s work in Madagascar. Jim responds in subsequent posts.

This post is the second in a series of five consecutive posts covering the issue of artisanal gemstone mining from a macro perspective of two people in the field. In the next post, Jim responds to Mohamed. ~ Marc Choyt, Editor

THE MADISON DIALOGUE POST:

I am a Tanzanian/African Gemstones dealer/Exporter based in Tanzania.I have been a keen reader of your mail and contributions. I am very fascinated by the Topic Vol 11 Issue 1- 1. Madagascar embargo causes miners pain (Jim Fiebig)

It’s a contribution which presents a true nature of the way most foreign gemstones dealers, notably from the USA, Europe and the Far East undermine miners and governments in Africa.

Mr. Jim should ask himself:

~ How did the people he claims are in poverty live before he arrived in Madagascar?

~How much in money, knowledge and material worth has he supported the miners?

~How much richer has he been since he arrived in Madagascar?

~How many Africans has he supported to penetrate the USA and other export markets?

~How much does he relatively pay for the gemstones?

There are many questions to ask.

Mr. Jim and many answers will be obvious that there is more to lose from the foreign buyers than gain. I have not seen anywhere in Mr. Jim’s letter where he has directly mentioned or blamed whoever did illegally export the Emerald crystal in question.

In Africa we do blame the Thorn before we blame the affected…. I ask him to personally respond to me so that I can give him more data and references of the way foreign Gemstones traders rob the African.

Share/Save/Bookmark

Gemstone Dealer, Jim Fiebig On The Work In Madagascar

Introduction:

Jim Fiebig (www.sellmorecolor.com) has been a passionate advocate for the artisanal mining sector for many years. Here, he describes the current situation in Madagascar, and his work in that country.

This post first appeared on the Madison Dialogue list serve, which elicited a response from Mohamed Mnzava, who questioned his work. Jim then responds to Mohamed Mnzava. I followed this up with an interview with Mohamed and a comment from another gemstone dealer.

This post is the first in a series of five consecutive posts covering the issue of artisanal gemstone mining from a macro perspective of two people in the field. ~ Marc Choyt, Editor.

JIM FIEBIG’S ORIGINAL POST:

I am very honored to be working with the Madison Dialogue group. I have been involved in gemstones and jewelry all of my life. In 2005 I sold my retail jewelry store in Sturgis, MI to move to Madagascar and start a gemstone tourism business so American jewelers could buy gemstones directly from the Malagasy people who so sorely need the revenue.
www.gemstonetrips.com

At that time most of the world’s sapphires were being smuggled out of this gem rich nation with little benefit going to the miners or the government. With pressure from World Bank and a dedicated group of American and Malagasy people, including another Madison colleague, Tom Cushman, these export laws were re-written to facilitate legal export with 2% duty on rough and no duty on “tourist” quantities of polished gems.

The Project Governance Resource Mineral started educating hundreds of Malagasy in gemology and gem cutting to add value to this incredibly well intentioned endeavor. This has served the country well for three years until an exceptional Emerald crystal was deceptively exported.

http://biz.yahoo. com/ap/080729/ hong_kong_ emerald_dispute. html?.v=1

The return of this piece has become a matter of national pride and the once pro-business President Ravalomanana has reacted by shutting down all gem related exports. This knee-jerk reaction has only served to instantly end any income for the thousands of artisinal miners all over Madagascar.

I just had seven clients there last month and while they did buy a great deal of rough and some cut stones, the rough now resides in my Madagascar bank safe deposit box until we can get the stones out legally.

Our travels to Ilakaka illustrated the dire situation. At mine sources that had at least 140 men working, there was no activity. In 8 years, I have never seen as much abject poverty in this gem mining town. We always see major corporations as the enemy of the arisinal miner but this and other experiences have reminded me that the countries and their greedy leaders are often the greatest evil.

Share/Save/Bookmark