Trade/Consumer Resources
Here is a list of resources on ethical jewelry issues. Updated October, 2011 by Greg Valerio.
CHANGE AGENTS
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Madison Dialogue:
In Oct. 2007, the Madison Dialogue, a cross sector collation of jewelers and NGOs, held a seminal meeting at the World Bank on ethical jewelry issues. The key architect of this movement was Steve D’Esposito, ED of Earth Works, an NGO devoted to hard rock mining issues. The meeting was heavily political and almost did not happen. Large scale mining and small scale mining have different points of view. Nevertheless, the meeting was highly important in that it brought together key change agents who even today are heavily involved in ethical sourcing issues.
When Steve left Earth Works, the Madison Dialog as a potent force slowly diminished. A list serve still exists, but few posts come through. It is still valuable in that the list is read by a wide variety of people in the jewelry sector concerned about CSR. www.madisondialogue.org
The Rapaport Group:
Martin Rapaport has been a powerful voice in support of human rights in diamonds and jewelry production. He sponsors annual fair trade jewelry meetings at the JCK show in Las Vegas. www.diamonds.net
www.diamonds.net/fairtrade
Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM):
ARM has brought fair trade certified precious metals, responsibly produced by artisanal and small-scale miners, to market in collaboration with the EU based Fair Labeling Organization. ARM’s pioneering initiative has been among the most important efforts on behalf of human rights and environmental justice for small scale miners.
http://www.communitymining.org/
The World Jewelry Confederation (CIBJO):
CIBJO is the World Jewelry Confederation. Dedicated to helping create a sustainable and responsible jewelry industry. CIBJO’s efforts are focused on corporate
www.sustainablejewellery.org
Communities and Small-scale Mining Secretariat (CASM):
A global networking and coordination facility with a stated mission to “to reduce poverty by improving the environmental, social and economic performance of artisanal and small-scale mining in developing countries.”
www.artisanalmining.org
Artisan Small Scale Mining (ASM):
An important development initiative supported by the World Bank and other organizations, world wide. This website goes into details explaining this work.
www.artisanalmining.org
Ethical Metalsmiths:
This group is made of mostly small designers and manufacturers interested in ethical jewelry practices. They have over 1000 members. Formed for the purpose of stimulating demand for responsibly sourced materials as an investment in the future. They stand for social responsibility, a healthy environment and materials that are consistent with these values.
www.ethicalmetalsmiths.org
DIAMONDS
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Finesse Diamonds:
Finesse aoffers diamonds mined and cut in Namibia, which they sell as Kalahari diamonds. This beneficiation project is one of the most forward demonstrations of positive creating downstream economy in the entire diamond sector. finessediamonds.com. They also offer Canadian Diamonds from the Ekati mine.
Excellent Facets, Inc.
The American source for Amadena, Canadian diamonds. Amadena is an established Mine-to-Market leader, bringing Canadian diamonds from their rough essence to the retail market, providing both finely cut loose diamonds and fine jewelry collections. Canada Mark.
www.amadena.com
Waldmen Diamonds
Waldman is another source for Canadian Mark diamonds. http://www.wdcgroup.com/
Motiganz U.S.A. Ltd
A DTC sight holder now making available the Fair Trade ‘Botswana Diamond’ through the Certified Diamond Exchange. Initiating and funding the new diamond-export initiative called the “Made in Botswana” program. Diamonds are mined and cut in Botswana. However, this company only sells to jewelry chains. www.motiganz.com
FAIR TRADE GEMS
(See FJA Membership for additional suppliers)
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Columbia Gem House Fair Gems Project:
Eric Braunwart, founder of Columbia Gems, pioneered his own fair trade system and sells his gemstones with full transparency. He has become a trusted source for colored stones for those in the jewelry sector wanting ethical sourcing.
Fair Trade Gems – www.fairtradegems.com
Main Home Page – www.columbiagemhouse.com
Fair Trade Sapphires and Traceable Melee Diamonds
“Open Source Minerals”
Mike Angenent founder of ‘Open Source Minerals’, sells fair trade sapphires from a small scale mining community in Madagascar as well as traceable diamonds to the jewelry trade.
Open Source Minerals – www.opensourceminerals.com
Zambian Aquamarine and Sri Lankan Sapphires
Guy Clutterbuck, as featured in the GIA Winter Loup, 09, sources directly from artisan miners in Zambia, and specializes in natural aquamarine, sappphire and emeralds. He has a very close relationship with Zambian tribes and artisanal miners in Sri Lanka. The stones are cut at a family owned, ethically run polishing factory in Thailand. As a one man operation, he does not have published standards. Contact Marc Choyt, reflective@cybermesa.com for more info.
Organic Gem Material:
Maggie Campbell Pedersen, FGA, ABIPP – Specialist information and education in Organic Gem Materials.
Organic Gems, is the only online archive devoted entirely to the subject of gem materials of plant and animal origin, which are used in jewellery and the decorative arts. Amber, copal, jet, ivory, bone, antler, horn, rhino horn, tortoiseshell, pearl, shell and coral, and many other less recognized materials such as baleen, vegetable ivory, feathers and ammolite are all organic gem materials.
www.maggiecp.co.uk
Ethical Sourcing Gemstone Website:
The site provides information for educators, researchers, governments, miners and companies. Also on the site are case studies done on the gemstone sector in various countries. This excellent work coming from Tiffany Scholar Sally Dickinson DeLeon and Saleem H. Ali, Ph.D along with several research collaborators at the University of Vermont.
www.uvm.edu/envnr/gemecology/index.html
Nature’s Geometry:
Supplier of rutilated quartz; Brian Cook; natgeo@sonic.net
General website: www.naturesgeometry.com
Tanzania Women Miner Association:
Supplier of Tanzanian gemstones. This association has been created to empower small scale women miners. Contact Shamsa Diwani shdiwani@yahoo.com
PRECIOUS METALS
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Hoover and Strong:
Third party certified, 100% recycled precious metals branded as Harmony Metals. www.hooverandstrong.com
CRED Sources:
Suppliers of certified Fairtrade Fairmined gold bullion products to the jewelry trade. Based in the UK. www.credsources.com
S&P Trading:
EU Source for recycled metals. Located in Paris, France. A Stakeholder Alliance Member of ARM. Contact Patrick Schein: schein.patrick@gmail.com
Oro Verde: “Green Gold.” (Corporacion Oro Verde):
Providing artisanal gold from Columbia that is mined without mercury or cyanide, Oro Verde is considered the pioneering agency producing the first mined “green gold”. Very little is produced annually. They are fully dedicated to responsible environmental practices and benefit for the local communities. www.greengold-oroverde.org
United PMR: (Precious Metal Refining)
Third party certified, 100% recycled precious metal; www.unitedpmr.com
Academy Green Silver
MANUFACTURERS
(See FJA Membership List for additional listings)
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P. T. Kapitmas:
This company works out of Indonesia with many fair-trade principles. They are also a Hoover and Strong distributor and can do their production with entirely recycled sterling silver. Contact: Ben Morice ben@kapitmas.com www.kapitmas.com
Impressione:
A jewelry manufacturing company based in the Philippines that values ethical production. www.impressione.biz
Faire Edelsteine (Thomas Siepelmeyer):
This company has made several inroads into fair trade sourcing. His website is in German. www.faire-edelsteine.de. Contact info: epupa@web.de
RETAILERS
(See FJA Membership List.)
BENCH PRACTICES
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Download this PDF on Green Jewelry Practices put out by the New Mexico (USA) Department of the Environment: http://www.p2pays.org/ref/19/18339.pdf
For “Less Toxic Alternatives,” http://www.silversmithing.com/1altern.htm
an article by Jeffrey Herman published on Society of American Silversmiths. Specific bench tips, providing alternatives to toxic compounds, from Dr. Bronner’s Soap to Citric Acid for pickle. Best of all, this online resource will be updated as, “safer supplies and methods are discovered.”
The Green Jewelry Newsletter: information on eco-friendly practices, courses etc. geared toward small scale manufacturers, mostly studio jewelers by Christine Dhein. Email her christinedhein@yahoo.com to subscribe.
Green Jewelry Tips from Alan Revere, founder of the Revere School. http://www.revereacademy.com/about/bench-tips/#c683
If you would like more information, please contact me: reflective@cybermesa.com
