Trade/Consumer Resources

TRADE SUPPLIERS AND RESOURCES

Here’s my best list of resources and suppliers. I will make additions to it as more information is passed to me. I put comments after those organizations that I know something about.

This list was drawn and expanded from the resource section my Ethical Jewelry Handbook, a free e-book available upon request.

RESOURCE LIST:

CHANGE AGENTS
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Madison Dialogue:

The first step that anyone interested in pursuing fair and ethical sourcing issues should be to join the Madison Dialogue List serve. You will get articles sent to you by various members on the list on any topic that seems important. Some will be relevant and some will immediately be deleted.

The real value of being on the list, however, comes if you have a particular question or concern. You can simply put the question out on the list serve to the broad network. You will get answers from a broad network of people who are connected all over the world by shared values of social responsibility.
www.madisondialogue.org

The Rapaport Group:

Martin Rapaport has been a powerful voice for fair trade diamonds and jewelry production. He has invested heavily in the development of this product which has yet to hit the market. He has also supported other fair trade based projects and created a Fair Trade Liaison position in his company, which is held by Amanda Stark.
www.diamonds.net
www.diamonds.net/fairtrade

Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM):

ARM aims to enable fair trade certified precious metals, responsibly produced by artisanal and small-scale miners, to reach the jewellery marketplace, via its Standard Zero for Fair Trade Artisanal Gold and Associated Silver and Platinum.

Standard Zero was developed by a knowledgeable and highly committed technical committee using FLO´s Fair Trade Generic Standards, and adapting them to artisanal and small scale gold mining. Standard Zero has undergone extensive local, national, regional and global consultation since August 2006.
www.communitymining.org

The World Jewelry Confederation (CIBJO):

CIBJO is the World Jewelry Confederation. Dedicated to helping create a sustainable and responsible jewelry industry.
www.sustainablejewellery.org

Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC):

This is a trade group representing mainly the views of large companies and Jewelers of America in the jewelry sector. At present, the RJC, www.responsiblejewellery.com is redefining “confidence in the gold and diamond supply chain” to include dirty gold and diamonds that are not traceable to ethical sources. The efforts of this organization are not supported by the international community. For more information, see:

Greg Valerio Interviews Michael Rae, CEO of the RJC: http://www.fairjewelry.org/archives/2205
Editorial: Marking the Responsible Jewelry Counsel Responsible http://www.fairjewelry.org/archives/2221
www.responsiblejewellery.com

Communities and Small-scale Mining Secretariat (CASM):

A global networking and coordination facility with a stated mission to “to reduce poverty by improving the environmental, social and economic performance of artisanal and small-scale mining in developing countries.”
www.artisanalmining.org

Artisan Small Scale Mining (ASM):

An important development initiative supported by the World Bank and other organizations, world wide. This website goes into details explaining this work.
www.artisanalmining.org

Ethical Metalsmiths:

This group is made of mostly small designers and manufacturers interested in ethical jewelry practices. Formed for the purpose of stimulating demand for responsibly sourced materials as an investment in the future. They stand for social responsibility, a healthy environment and materials that are consistent with these values.
www.ethicalmetalsmiths.org

Clear Conscience project by Lori Bonn Designs:

Clear Conscience Jewelry and Accessories is an industry initiative to create a new standard for products that are environmentally and socially responsible. The project is initially sponsored by Lori Bonn Design Inc., but is intended as a non-proprietary standard for the industry. This company is one of the early movers in pushing for ethically produced product.
www.clearconsciencejewelry.org

DIAMONDS
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The Rapaport Group:

Martin Rapaport has been a powerful voice for fair trade diamonds and jewelry production. He has invested heavily in the development of this product which has yet to hit the market. He has also supported other fair trade based projects and created a Fair Trade Liaison position in his company, which is held by Amanda Stark.
www.diamonds.net
www.diamonds.net/fairtrade

Finesse Diamonds:

Canadian Diamonds from the Ekati mine. Also a DTC sight holder. Also offers diamonds from Russia, the 88 brand out of Australia. Also dedicated to the beneficiation of local communities in the diamond regions of Africa.
finessediamonds.com

Nenoir Diamonds:

Canadian Diamonds. Offering CanadaMark certified diamonds.
www.nenoir.com

Excellent Facets, Inc.

The American source for Amadena, Canadian diamonds. Amadena is an established Mine-to-Market leader, bringing Canadian diamonds from their rough essence to the retail market, providing both finely cut loose diamonds and fine jewelry collections. Canada Mark.
www.amadena.com

Motiganz U.S.A. Ltd

A DTC sight holder now making available the Fair Trade ‘Botswana Diamond’ through the Certified Diamond Exchange. Initiating and funding the new diamond-export initiative called the “Made in Botswana” program has helped transform Botswana from one of the poorest countries in the world to a country with one of the fastest per capita income growth rates, the company says. Companies can now sell ethical African diamonds with a solid pipe line that are directly linked to a specific beneficiation project.

To be able to purchase the ‘Botswana Diamond’, trade members must register with the CDE.
www.cdediamonds.com
www.motiganz.com

FAIR TRADE GEMS
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Columbia Gem House Fair Gems Project:

Eric Braunwart, founder of Columbia Gems, pioneered his own fair trade system and sells his gemstones with full transparency. He has become a trusted source for colored stones for those in the jewelry sector wanting ethical sourcing.
Fair Trade Gems – www.fairtradegems.com
Main Home Page – www.columbiagemhouse.com

Fair Trade Sapphires and Traceable Melee Diamonds

“Open Source Minerals”

Mike Angenent founder of ‘Open Source Minerals’, sells fair trade sapphires from a small scale mining community in Madagascar as well as traceable diamonds to the jewelry trade.
Open Source Minerals – www.opensourceminerals.com

Zambian Aquamarine and Sri Lankan Sapphires

Guy Clutterbuck, as featured in the GIA Winter Loup, 09, sources directly from artisan miners in Zambia, and specializes in natural aquamarine. He has a very close relationship with tribes that have been dealing with him for many years. He also has a direct relationship with artisanal miners in Sri Lanka. The stones are cut at a family owned, ethically run polishing factory in Thailand.
Contact Marc Choyt, reflective@cybermesa.com for more info.

Organic Gem Material:

Maggie Campbell Pedersen, FGA, ABIPP – Specialist information and education in Organic Gem Materials.
Organic Gems, is the only online archive devoted entirely to the subject of gem materials of plant and animal origin, which are used in jewellery and the decorative arts. Amber, copal, jet, ivory, bone, antler, horn, rhino horn, tortoiseshell, pearl, shell and coral, and many other less recognized materials such as baleen, vegetable ivory, feathers and ammolite are all organic gem materials.
www.maggiecp.co.uk

Ethical Sourcing Gemstone Website:

The site provides information for educators, researchers, governments, miners and companies. Also on the site are case studies done on the gemstone sector in various countries. This excellent work coming from Tiffany Scholar Sally Dickinson DeLeon and Saleem H. Ali, Ph.D along with several research collaborators at the University of Vermont.
www.uvm.edu/envnr/gemecology/index.html

Nature’s Geometry:

Supplier of rutilated quartz; Brian Cook; natgeo@sonic.net
General website: www.naturesgeometry.com

Tanzania Women Miner Association:

Supplier of Tanzanian gemstones. Contact Shamsa Diwani shdiwani@yahoo.com

Kamoka Pearls

A grower and cultivator of Tahitian Pearls, Kamoka Pearls is run by Josh Humbert, who employs responsible environmental practices in his production, and also highly values the well being of his employees. For contact information about this company, see www.kamokapearls.com or contact Josh at: kamokaperles@mail.pf

Gemkit Enterprises Ltd:

An IFAT registered company out of Kenya. This website is a sister company that provides beads and some cut gems.
www.geocities.com/gemkitent/sapphire.html (Note: currently, their home page is not up and running)

The Myth and Lore of Gemstones:

I recently completed 15 articles on birthstones, drawing on myths and lore. A “meaning” for the gemstone is offered to the reader, based on the stories. I wrote these because I could not find this type of resource any where on line and they might be useful in a retail situation for a customer inquiring about birthstones. You can view these articles on my website, www.celticjewelry.com and reprint them with permission.
www.celticjewelry.com/articles.php

PRECIOUS METALS
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Hoover and Strong:

Recycled precious metals. Offers the Harmony brand of recycled metals and ethical gems. All precious metals at Hoover & Strong including gold, platinum, palladium, sterling silver, fine silver and copper are 100% recycled. One of the premiere materials provider to the trade.
www.hooverandstrong.com

S&P Trading:

EU Source for recycled metals. Located in Paris, France. A Stakeholder Alliance Member of ARM.
Contact Patrick Schein: schein.patrick@gmail.com

Oro Verde: “Green Gold.” (Corporacion Oro Verde):

Ethically sourced gold supplier, providing artisanal gold from Columbia. Dedicated to their environment and local communities. A Stakeholder Alliance Member of ARM.
www.greengold-oroverde.org

The Ethical Bullion Company (EBC):

Ethically sourced gold bullion from artisanal miners. Working closely with ARM (Association for Responsible Mining).
www.ethicalbullion.com

Urth Solution:

Supplier of ethical gold from Madagascar and Bolivia. www.urthsolution.com

United PMR: (Precious Metal Refining)

Recycled precious metals.
www.unitedpmr.com

Academy Green Silver
www.academygreensilver.com

MANUFACTURERS
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Reflective Images:

This is my company. We produce jewelry for both wholesale and retail. Visit www.celticjewelry.com to see our FRE system. Our companion site is www.artisanweddingrings.com
We have just launched our latest line of jewelry, our Carousel Bead Collection. www.carouselbeads.com

Vukani Ubuntu:

South African Fair Trade manufacturer. Vukani-Ubuntu has grown from a single idea back in 1998, to a national network of grass-roots development projects across South Africa. Dedicated to Integrated Sustainable Development as a world model.
www.vukani.co.za

P. T. Kapitmas:

This company works out of Indonesia with many fair-trade principles. They are also a Hoover and Strong distributor and can do their production with entirely recycled sterling silver. Contact it’s Director, Ben Morice, for more information: Ben Morice ben@kapitmas.com
www.kapitmas.com

Impressione:

A jewelry manufacturing company based in the Philippines that values ethical production. www.impressione.biz

Faire Edelsteine (Thomas Siepelmeyer):
www.faire-edelsteine.de.
Contact info: epupa@web.de

This company has made several inroads into fair trade sourcing. His website is in German.

RETAILERS
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The companies below represent successful examples of marketing and product development that reach what I call the Patagonia, Whole Foods customer.

Reflective Images:

This is my company. We have three retail lines, all made with 100% recycled sterling. Internationally, we work with a company that adheres to fair trade principals. Our three lines are:
www.celticjewelry.com
www.carouselbeads.com and
www.artisanweddingrings.com

Brilliant Earth:

This company has successfully marketed to consumers interested in ethical jewelry products. They are excellent examples of first movers in the jewelry sector.
www.brilliantearth.com

C5 Company

C5 company is an innovative fine jewelry retailer offering a wide selection of environmentally and socially responsible alternatives to the traditional fine jewelry industry. They provide custom jewelry services and host an online boutique devoted to sustainable jewelry designers. Designers on the site use lab-created gems, ethically sourced gems, and recycled metals.
www.c5company.com

Ruff and Cut:

A new product launch developed by Wade Watson in coordination with several other designers in support of Arts4Africa.
Wade was also involved in starting Pride Diamonds—a successful social entrepreneurial venture in Sierra Leon.
www.ruffandcut.com

Green Karat:

This company has successfully marketed to consumers interested in ethical jewelry products. They are quite pure (no mining) and excellent examples of first movers in the jewelry sector. Located in Houston, TX, USA.
www.greenkarat.com

Cred Jewellery:

The UK Company founded by Greg Valerio is pioneering fair trade gold with their designer jewelry brand. A Stakeholder Alliance Member of ARM.
www.credjewellery.com

Fifi Bijoux:

Luxury ethical jewelry designed by Vivien Johnston, based in the UK (Scotland). Promoting positive ethics and an alternative to exploitation, human rights abuses or damage to the environment. A Stakeholder Alliance Member of ARM.
www.fifibijoux.com

The Clarity Project
The Clarity Project sells directly sourced and fair made diamond jewelry and invests all net profits back into mining communities.
www.theclarityproject.com

GET INVOLVED
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The working groups that came out of the Madison Dialogue are in the process of developing fair trade standards. They are open to those interested in participating.

Manufacturing Group
Colored Gemstone Group
Diamond Group
Precious Metal Mining.

BENCH PRACTICES
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“Less Toxic Alternatives,” http://www.silversmithing.com/1altern.htm
an article by Jeffrey Herman published on Society of American Silversmiths. Specific bench tips, providing alternatives to toxic compounds, from Dr. Bronner’s Soap to Citric Acid for pickle. Best of all, this online resource will be updated as, “safer supplies and methods are discovered.”

The Green Jewelry Newsletter: information on eco-friendly practices, courses etc. geared toward small scale manufacturers, mostly studio jewelers by Christine Dhein. Email her christinedhein@yahoo.com to subscribe.

Green Jewelry Tips from Alan Revere, founder of the Revere School. http://www.revereacademy.com/about/bench-tips/#c683

If you would like more information, please contact me: reflective@cybermesa.com

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